Monday, 15 December 2008
Left Boston at 3 a.m., parked at Logan, and proceeded to wait in the longest line
ever, with each passenger checking at least five refrigerator-sized suitcases and carrying on several purses, backpacks, laptops, cosmetic cases, and small, wailing children.
After a stopover in Miami we finally arrived in San Jose and were greeted by our rental car agency. Processing and signing the papers took about as long as writing a novel, but at last we got the keys to our 4x4, loaded our backpacks into the trunk, and hit the road. By “hit the road”, I mean “drove straight to our hotel in a dark and slightly questionable neighborhood, checked in, and passed out.”
Tuesday, 16 December 2008
Either because of the time change or vacation-induced excitement, Christine and I were both up long before 7 a.m. and dressed for a run soon after. The sky was bright, clear, and blue. We tried to head away from the main drag but somehow kept finding ourselves deeper and deeper within the highly-trafficked rush-hour crush of people, cars, and bicycles. We walked and talked, catching up on recent weeks, work, and life in general. When we were finally able to run for a few blocks, we broke out into a jog that earned us more than a few stares and
buenos dias’.
San Jose seemed a little grungy and not particularly charming - lots of potholes, rubbish, and buildings that look as if they were made out of matchboxes and scotch tape. We enjoyed people-watching and peeking into store fronts, but the gritty, torn up sidewalks were barely a match even for trail shoes, and the car exhaust seemed to stick to my skin. But after many hours of travel, even a grimy run felt good; just getting out in the sunshine and working up a sweat felt refreshing.
We ate breakfast on the terrace by the hotel pool and after fueling up on cafe con leche, plantains, fruit, and beans and rice we hit the road for Lake Arenal and the thermal baths that awaited. After a day of driving and a little delayed jet-lag, we soaked away our aches in the Ecotermales and slept like corpses at our volcano-side lodge.
Wednesday, 17 December 2008
We tried to run, but even our best efforts were no match for the sidewalk-less road where cars, trucks, buses, and mopeds threatened to send us flying into a roadside ditch. After a few minutes of hoping we'd somehow stumble across a sidewalk or run-able side road, we abandoned the mission in favor of walking back to the lodge for breakfast. Though I was really hoping to start the day with a few miles on the roads, coffee, yoga, and a little meditation by the pool were not a bad second choice. As I've been told, sometimes the best run is the one you don't take.
Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday...
I could write more about the zipline through the rainforest, the hot springs, the beach, or the Christmas procession that went on for four hours. I could write about the cafe con leche strong and sweet enough to lull me into a gently caffeinated state of bliss each morning; the fresh papaya, guanabana, maracuya, and bananas that tasted like they were just picked moments ago, and the caramelly, sweet dulce de leche I ate straight from the package, much to the amusement and disgust of my travel companions. I could write about the lush hills and mountains we drove through, the skinny cows and horses by the side of the road, and the kids - free of helmets and any cares in the world - skitting through the streets on mopeds that had to date back to the Reagan administration. I could write about the cheesy, lovey-dovey Latin ballads that seemed to blare from every speaker in the country; the warmth and friendliness of a people who seem to encounter pale, linguistically-challenged tourists on a daily basis and are only too happy to merrily point them in the right direction with a sunny smile; the hour we spent gleefully and curiously meandering the aisles of the grocery store, stocking up on local snacks for the car ride back to San Jose. I could write about spending an entire day in my bathing suit, reading by the pool, walking on the beach, having fruity drinks for lunch, and laughing with my sister and friends. I could write about any number of these things, and they might be interesting or even entertaining, but in the end, one can just as easily pick up a guide book and marvel at the pictures. One can just as easily experience their own Costa Rica, either from near or from a far. Because in the end, you do not take a trip. A trip takes you.